Polaris 570/900/1000 Battery Not Charging? Stator Symptoms, Testing & 4015340 Fitment Guide
A Polaris Ranger, RZR, or Sportsman that repeatedly loses battery power may have a charging-system problem rather than a bad battery alone. The machine may start normally after charging, then crank slowly later, show unstable electrical behavior, or refuse to restart after a long ride.
The stator is one possible cause, but the battery, voltage regulator/rectifier, connectors, wiring, and grounds can produce similar symptoms. Replacing the stator before testing the complete charging system can waste time and leave the original fault unresolved.
If testing confirms a stator fault, compare the original unit with this 18-coil replacement stator for Polaris Ranger, RZR and Sportsman. Verify the OEM number, connector, dimensions, wire configuration, and original stator layout before ordering.
Common Polaris Stator Failure Symptoms
A stator does not always fail completely at once. Heat, damaged winding insulation, or deteriorating electrical connections can gradually reduce output while the ATV or UTV continues to run from stored battery power.
Common warning signs include:
- The battery repeatedly loses charge.
- A fully charged or recently replaced battery becomes weak again.
- The starter cranks more slowly after riding.
- The machine starts normally but will not restart later.
- Running battery voltage remains low.
- Lights, instruments, or accessories become unstable.
- Charging performance gets worse after the engine heats up.
- The stator or regulator connector becomes dark, melted, or unusually hot.
- One stator phase produces a noticeably different reading.
- Stator windings show visible overheating or physical damage.
These symptoms point to a charging-system problem, but they do not prove the stator itself has failed.
A battery that cannot hold a charge, a regulator that cannot properly control charging voltage, or a high-resistance connection can create many of the same symptoms.
Bad Stator, Battery, or Voltage Regulator?
Use test results to narrow the fault instead of replacing parts based on symptoms alone.
| What You Find | More Likely Cause |
|---|---|
| Battery fails load or capacity test | Battery |
| Battery is good but charging remains low | Stator, regulator, wiring |
| One stator phase differs significantly | Stator |
| A stator phase has unwanted continuity to ground | Stator or stator wiring |
| Stator AC output is balanced but battery voltage stays low | Regulator, connector, wiring, or ground |
| Charging voltage becomes excessively high | Regulator/rectifier |
| Connector is melted or discolored | High-resistance connection |
| Charging becomes worse when hot | Heat-related stator, regulator, or connection fault |
The important principle is simple:
Test first, replace second.
A new stator cannot correct a weak battery, failed regulator, poor ground, or burned connector.
How to Test a Polaris 3-Wire Stator
Use a reliable multimeter and the service information for your exact Polaris model and year. Ranger, RZR, Sportsman, General, Scrambler, and ACE applications can use different charging-system specifications even when the stators look similar.
1. Test the Battery First
Start with a fully charged battery.
Check:
- Positive and negative terminals
- Battery cables
- Engine and chassis grounds
- Corrosion
- Loose connections
A battery may show reasonable resting voltage but still fail under starter load. A load or capacity test is more useful when evaluating battery health.
Do not diagnose the charging system with a known weak battery.
2. Inspect the Stator Connector and Wiring
Before replacing the stator, inspect the connector and wiring harness carefully.
Look for:
- Melted plastic
- Darkened terminals
- Loose pins
- Corrosion
- Mud or moisture contamination
- Chafed insulation
- Pinched wiring
- Damaged crimps
ATVs and UTVs often operate around water, mud, vibration, and heat, making connector condition especially important.
A corroded or loose terminal can create resistance, reduce usable charging output, and generate enough heat to damage the connector.
3. Check Running Battery Voltage
Measure battery voltage with the engine switched off, then repeat the test while the engine runs under the conditions specified in the correct service manual.
The goal is to determine whether charging voltage rises and remains properly controlled.
If voltage stays low, do not immediately assume the stator is bad. Continue testing the stator, regulator/rectifier, connectors, wiring, and grounds.
4. Compare the Three Stator Phases
For a matching 3-wire stator, label the three output wires:
A, B, and C
With the stator disconnected from the regulator, compare:
- A to B
- B to C
- C to A
The three phase-to-phase readings should be reasonably consistent.
A substantial difference may indicate a damaged winding, stator lead, or connection.
Because expected resistance can be low, meter-lead resistance may influence the measurement. Always compare the results with the service specification for the exact machine.
5. Check Each Phase Against Ground
Test each stator output wire against a reliable engine ground.
Where the windings should remain isolated, unwanted continuity to ground may indicate damaged insulation or a shorted winding.
Keep the stator disconnected from the regulator and vehicle harness so another circuit does not affect the reading.
6. Compare AC Output
Set the multimeter to AC voltage and compare:
- A to B
- B to C
- C to A
Test all three combinations at the same engine speed.
If two phase combinations produce similar output but the third is substantially lower, the stator may have an internal winding problem.
If all three phases are balanced but battery-side charging is still abnormal, investigate the regulator/rectifier, connectors, wiring, and grounds.
7. Repeat the Test When Hot
Some electrical faults appear only after the machine reaches operating temperature.
A stator or connector may test normally when cold but lose performance after extended trail riding, utility work, or high electrical load.
If the charging problem appears after the vehicle warms up, repeat the relevant tests while the symptom is present.
Understanding Polaris OEM 4015340 and Related Stator Numbers
Polaris used different stator numbers across model years and platforms, which can make replacement selection confusing.
One important relationship is clear: Polaris currently lists 4015340 as a replacement for 4013970 on its official parts site.
Another commonly encountered number is 4014406. Polaris currently sells 4014406 as a stator, and a 2017 RZR 900 OEM parts diagram identifies 4014406 as the factory stator in the engine stator-and-cover assembly.
Other aftermarket cross-reference listings may group numbers such as:
- 4014839
- 4015292
- 4013990
- 4013013
with the same general replacement family.
However, a cross-reference list should not be treated as proof that every part number is interchangeable on every machine.
The safer approach is to confirm:
OEM reference + connector + dimensions + mounting layout + wiring configuration
before ordering.
After checking those details, compare your original component with this Polaris 4015340 18-coil stator replacement.
Which Polaris Models Use This Stator Family?
This replacement family is commonly associated with selected 570, 850, 900, and 1000cc Polaris ATV and UTV applications.
Ranger
Common listed applications include:
- Ranger 570
- Ranger Crew 570
- Ranger XP 900
- Ranger Crew 900
- Ranger Crew XP 900
RZR
Common listed applications include:
- RZR 570
- RZR XP 900
- RZR 900
- RZR 4 900
- RZR XP 1000
- RZR 4 XP 1000
The importance of checking the actual OEM number can be seen in the RZR line. For example, the 2017 RZR 900 OEM diagram identifies 4014406 as its stator rather than simply using the same part number across all RZR model years.
Sportsman and Scrambler
Selected applications include:
- Sportsman 570
- Sportsman 570 Touring
- Sportsman 570 X2
- Sportsman 850
- Sportsman XP 1000
- Scrambler 850
- Scrambler XP 1000
General and ACE
Selected applications include:
- General 1000
- General 4 1000
- ACE 500
- ACE 570
- ACE 900
Do not select a stator by “570,” “900,” or “1000” engine size alone.
Model year, platform, original part number, and electrical configuration are more useful fitment checks than displacement by itself.
How to Confirm the Correct Polaris Stator
Before ordering, compare the replacement directly with the original stator.
For this replacement family, check:
| Fitment Detail | Replacement Reference |
| Coil / Pole Count | 18 |
| Outer Diameter | Approx. 125–126 mm |
| Inner Diameter | Approx. 54 mm |
| Thickness | Approx. 19 mm where applicable |
| Wiring | 3-wire configuration where applicable |
| Connector | 1 plug / 3 pins where applicable |
| Main OEM Reference | 4015340 |
| Related References | 4013970, 4014406 and other verified cross-references |
Also compare:
- Connector shape
- Wire colors and terminal arrangement
- Harness length
- Mounting-hole locations
- Pickup or sensor layout, if present
- Overall winding design
The most useful rule is:
OEM number + connector + dimensions should all agree before ordering.
If the original number cannot be read, take clear photos of the stator, connector, and wire routing and measure the inner and outer diameters before choosing a replacement.
Why a New Stator May Not Fix the Charging Problem
A new stator can still leave the ATV or UTV with charging problems if another fault remains in the system.
Common causes include:
- A weak battery
- A faulty regulator/rectifier
- Burned connector terminals
- Poor engine or chassis ground
- Damaged wiring
- Water or corrosion inside connectors
Inspect related components before installing the new stator.
A replacement stator should not be connected to loose, burned, or heavily corroded terminals. If a connector has overheated, repair the damaged connection first.
Likewise, balanced stator AC output combined with abnormal battery charging should direct attention toward the regulator, wiring, and connections rather than automatically condemning the stator.
When Should You Replace the Stator?
Stator replacement makes sense when testing provides evidence that the stator itself is faulty.
Replace the stator when:
- One phase differs significantly from the others.
- AC output is below the correct specification.
- A winding has an unwanted short to ground.
- Output drops significantly when hot.
- Windings show visible heat damage.
- Battery, regulator, and wiring checks point back to the stator.
Do not replace it yet when:
- The battery has not been load-tested.
- The regulator/rectifier has not been checked.
- Burned or corroded connectors remain unrepaired.
- Wiring or ground faults are still present.
- OEM number and physical fitment are uncertain.
Correct diagnosis reduces unnecessary parts replacement and lowers the chance of repeat charging-system failure.
Frequently Asked Questions
What Are the Symptoms of a Bad Stator on a Polaris Ranger or RZR?
Common symptoms include repeated battery discharge, slow cranking, low running voltage, unstable electrical accessories, heat-damaged connectors, and abnormal stator phase readings.
These symptoms should be confirmed through electrical testing because battery, regulator, wiring, and ground faults can produce similar problems.
How Do I Test a 3-Wire Polaris Stator?
Disconnect the stator from the regulator, compare A–B, B–C, and C–A resistance, check each phase for unwanted continuity to ground, and compare AC output between all three phase combinations at the specified engine speed.
Use the service specifications for your exact vehicle.
Is Polaris 4015340 the Same as 4013970?
Polaris officially lists part 4015340 as the replacement for 4013970.
Even with an official supersession, compare the original connector and vehicle fitment before installation.
Will a 4015340 Stator Fit Every Polaris 570, 900, or 1000?
No.
Engine displacement alone does not confirm stator fitment. Different years and model families can use different charging components.
Confirm the OEM number, connector, wiring configuration, outer and inner diameters, mounting layout, and original stator appearance before ordering.
Final Diagnosis and Replacement Advice
A Polaris that repeatedly loses battery power should be diagnosed as a complete charging system. Start with the battery, inspect the connectors and grounds, then test regulated charging voltage and compare all three stator phases.
Avoid replacing the stator simply because the battery went dead. A battery, regulator, damaged connector, or wiring fault may be responsible.
If testing confirms stator failure and the OEM reference, connector, and dimensions match, review this 18-coil stator for Polaris Ranger, RZR, Sportsman, General and ACE before ordering.
Correct diagnosis and correct fitment are equally important—especially on a stator family used across many Polaris platforms and model years.